Though I've always worn "alternative" fashion, I've never been able to adhere fully to just one style. Fashion is my favorite art form, and I have a hard time sticking to just one thing! I'm also always inspired by the music and media I'm currently consuming, which often leads to me crafting new items and emulating the "vibe."
In the past, this led to me overhauling my wardrobe multiple times, only to do the same thing again a year or two later. This, obviously, is not a sustainable way to live, even if I thrift everything. It's also wasteful and silly, because who knows what I'm going to be inspired by in the next week or month?
The solution to this problem is that, now, I have a big and "un-aesthetic" wardrobe full of tons of unique pieces, essentially split into three "capsules": mori kei inspired, visual kei, and lolita. There is, of course, a ton of overlap, and I really enjoy experimenting with combining styles and pieces I wouldn't usually. Rectangle headpieces look good with everything, what can I say?
Lately though, as the weather is cooling off and I'm consuming my favorite genre of comfort media (vampires, 19th-century alternate history and books about circuses) I've been feeling the long skirts, granny boots, velvet, and big fancy collars of one particular style: Elegant Gothic Aristocrat.
What Is EGA?
I know, I know. There's sort of a "thing" in J-fashion (or at least, there was in the LiveJournal era) about how you shouldn't use the label EGA for anything that isn't explicitly Moi-Meme-Moitie. But if I'm being honest, if Mana-sama didn't want us using his abbreviations, he shouldn't have made them so dang convenient. It's SO much better to be able to say "EGL" than to explain to a stranger that "lolita" doesn't refer to Nabokov's Novel (I do think we as a community have too strong of a knee-jerk reaction to what is a very nuanced work, but I also understand why).
EGA, or Elegant Gothic Aristocrat, is essentially the "grown-up" older sibling of Elegant Gothic Lolita fashion (though of course, lolita doesn't have an age limit). The term was coined by Mana, the guitarist for the best band to ever exist (Malice Mizer) and the founder of the clothing brand Moi-Meme-Moitie. While Elegant Gothic Lolita involves shorter/poofier skirts, softer details (rounded collars, ribbon hair accessories, yards of torchon lace) and more of an emphasis on blending "cuteness" with elegance, Elegant Gothic Aristocrat leans heavily into the "wandering a castle with a candelabra" vibe. Longer skirts, corseting, pointed collars, ruffled jabots and even the occasional cape aren't out of place. Shoes are also a key difference: lolita shoes are, in a word, stubby. The typical EGL shoe (at least in my world) has a bubble toe, a slab-like platform, and should contribute to you walking a little bit like a stupid horse. EGA shoes, on the other hand, can trend towards Victorian inspiration with styles like granny boots and lower heels. However, be not deceived, platforms are still essential. Platforms are always essential.
Why Do I Love It Right Now?
I've recently added a fair amount of h.NAOTO to my wardrobe, specifically the Blood sub-line. I have a utility belt/half-skirt, two cardigans, and a tank top from Blood, and the delicate gothic motifs and layering options have kept them in heavy rotation the past few months. In the winter, my layering options expand drastically, meaning I've been wearing a lot of long skirts, waistcoats, and the amazing black velvet blazer I thrifted this summer.
My friends and I are also planning our outfits for a Christmas Nosferatu outing, which is giving me extra inspiration and excitement! I love planning outfits with my people, it's almost as fun as the outing itself.
All of this combined means I've been turning more to Black Peace Now, Atelier Boz, and Moitie Gothic & Lolita Bible shoots for day-to-day outfit inspiration. Wearing longer skirts and layers feels somehow both more casual, but also more work appropriate (even though I work from home). Having physical magazines to look at, especially older ones, also really helps me add some inspiration without feeling like I need to go out and purchase things immediately! Which I'm going to immediately contradict by saying that, as I create more outfits inspired by this style, there are a few things I'd like to add to my wardrobe.
How Am I Incorporating EGA?
I'd like to be clear that I'm not setting out to create Perfect and Accurate Best Ever EGA Coords, but just to throw some EGA inspiration into the big chaotic costume closet of my wardrobe. I've divided this into a few categories, consisting of pieces I already own and use, pieces I'd like to purchase in the vein of this style, and pieces I'd like to make for this style. I'm trying to add some photos for interest, but also trying not to overload this section with them!
Pieces I Already Own
Tops
Meta Round Collar Cape Blouse (black x white) - My darling, my beauty, my stupidly expensive and impractical shirt. The cape being detachable definitely helped justify this one.
BPN Pointed Collar Blouse (white) - I wear this way too much, and I keep meaning to make a chain to hook between the collar grommets.
Excentrique Broderie Anglaise Blouse - I LOVE Excentrique. I also have to wear this blouse with the sleeve band unbuttoned so I can bend my elbows.
h.NAOTO Cross Motif Cami - I am so guilty of slapping this over EVERYTHING. It's just my favorite.
h.NAOTO cardigan - the little flower lace! The crown button!
h.NAOTO cardigan - the back of this cardigan is printed with the Latin definition for "devil." It was also $15, my cheapest ever h.NAOTO piece!
Metamorphose shirring blouses (black and white) - these blouses have giant goofy Peter Pan collars, which I love for adding some exaggerated cuteness to elegant outfits.
Moitie cross lace pin tuck blouse - another blouse I'm guilty of wearing constantly, love the short Michelin Man sleeves.
Wet Seal Vest - a thrifted piece I spruced up with corseting on the back and a replacement button.
Free People eyelet blouse - another thrift find with insane sleeves that gets a ton of love!
Velvet blazer - Thrifted, I believe Ann Taylor? I love the shape and the buttons!
Bottoms/Dresses
Good Luck JSK - My most precious piece of tacky Old School history, this baby is a whole lot of polyester, heinously short, and cost me a whole $7 (technically, $11 after shopping service fees) on Mercari JP. While not technically aristo, it reminds me so much of older Mana looks!
Thrifted corset hem skirt - I spotted the stunning corset gore detail on a rack in my local Goodwill, and the rest is history. I recently had to fix the waist, but now she's good to go! This skirt is the perfect maxi length on me.
Drug Honey skirt - another cheap Mercari JP find, I ALSO had to fix the elastic waist on this one.
Thrifted black velvet dress - a soft, cozy, ultra-flattering velvet maxi dress, Union made from the 1980's.
American Eagle black skinny jeans - my singular pair of pants. I don't wear them often, but they're great for doing a sort of historical dandy inspired outfit via tucking them into tall boots and adding a vest and blouse.
Accessories
I can't even list them all here, but I have an array of earrings, necklaces, brooches, rosaries, and bracelets, most notably a selection of Moitie jewelry. I also own an Antique Beast headpiece, a Marble headpiece, and a pair of true antique gloves from the 1940's to add extra interest.
Pieces I've Purchased
I have an open Neokyo order, so I've added three new pieces to my wardrobe: a long h.NAOTO Blood JSK, a Maxicimam corset belt, and a black pointed collar blouse from BPN with a cross motif. These are coming in the mail in the next month!
Pieces I Want To Add
As you can tell from that huge non-exhaustive list of things I own, I basically have everything covered. There are just a few things that I think would make this capsule more complete, that I'm hoping to thrift or pick up online:
A black long-sleeved blouse - preferably with a standing collar or a pussy-bow collar, bonus for huge blousy sleeves.
A long black duster coat - in a textured fabric like fur, velvet, brocade, or wool, if I can find it.
A black pair of granny boots - I have a brown pair I love dearly and wear often, but I sometimes feel like the dark brown with a fully black outfit ruins the vibe.
A black purse - same issue as above. I have a brown satchel purse my fiancé bought me that I love, but sometimes a black one would just look better.
A long h.Naoto Blood skirt - there's one I have my eye on, for about $40 USD. If it's still available later this month, I'm hoping to snag it before I close my shopping service order.
I'm not in a huge rush to find any of this, as I have pieces that work for now! This is more just a thrift wishlist for me, or things I'm keeping an eye out for.
Pieces I Want to Make
I'm currently working on a white jabot, as well as a crocheted lace round headdress/canotier. I've made a few glasses chains to add some interest to my frames, but I'm hoping to make a few more! I'd also love to make a shawl or scarf, as it gets colder and colder here.
How Can You Add Aristocrat Inspo?
As you can probably tell from my loooong list of wardrobe pieces I already own, if you have an eccentric and J-fashion inclined wardrobe, you really don't need to buy anything to add some EGA inspiration to an outfit. I think there are some really simple ways you can add aristocrat flair to your styling, though I'm certainly not the authority.
Add a vest - channel the 13-year old Black Butler fan lurking within your soul and put a vest over your blouse!
Lower the hemline - longer skirts are a mainstay of aristocrat coordinates, but (controversial opinion in the year of baggy pants, I know) I think skinny pants tucked into tall boots always gives off a sort of princely feeling. Short skirts can also totally work, though!! I think it's just a matter of balancing more modern elements with historical/gothic ones.
Try a choker - you see a lot more square necks in EGA than EGL (not to say they're absent in EGL), which gives you more opportunities for cool necklaces! I personally have a velvet Moitie choker I love, but I know Wunderwelt have a ton of Alchemy Gothic pieces right now (for some reason) at great secondhand prices.
Brooches and corsages - what says "gothic vampire noble" like a burgundy rose brooch, or a black feathered fascinator in your hair? I'm thinking about maybe making some burgundy velvet ribbon roses to create a brooch for myself. Just adding a cameo to your jacket can be a perfect finishing touch!
Ditch the mary janes - I live in my Doc Marten mary janes, but granny boots are my absolute favorites for Victorian-inspired outfits!
Scarves and rings - you can wear them separately, of course, but you can also make a scarf into a faux-jabot by using a decorative ring as a toggle! It's a brooch and jabot all in one.
Look in unexpected places - the 1970's had a medieval revival, which drew not from true medieval fashion, but from the Victorian reimagining of medieval fashion (everything wrong with archaeology is, unfortunately, mostly the fault of the Victorians). If you have any 1970's-inspired pieces in your wardrobe, throw them into the mix and see what happens! 70's medieval revival is also a great movement to look to for general inspiration.
Inspiration
Join me and my friends in what I am calling "Bara no Konrei Fall/Winter!" Below is a huge list of albums, movies, books, and photos to help inspire you and set the mood for the season.
Music
Rasputina
Emilie Autumn
Malice Mizer
Versailles
Femme Fatale
Gpkism
The Damned (specifically the album Phantasmagoria)
Birdeatsbaby/Mishkin Fitzgerald
Disjecta Membra
Altar de Fey
Books
Godchild - Kaori Yuki
Ludwig Revolution - Kaori Yuki
Black Butler - Yana Toboso
White as Snow - Tanith Lee
Drink to Me Only With Labyrinthine Eyes - Thomas Ligotti
The Bloody Chamber - Angela Carter
Tales of Pain and Wonder - Caitlin R. Kiernan
Movies
The Company of Wolves
Valerie and Her Week of Wonders
The Creeping Flesh
Lust For a Vampire
Fright Night
Only Lovers Left Alive
The Hunger
Vampyros Lesbos
The Blood on Satan's Claw
Bara no Konrei (yes, it's kinda bad. Yes, it has to be here)
Art and Coordinates
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