I HATE synthetics. Hate, hate, hate them with a burning passion. So, since my pathetic MAM petticoat has finally cotton ratty enough for me to consider putting it out of its misery, I decided that instead of spending $40+ on a new synthetic petti, I was just going to spend $24 and some elbow grease and sew myself one that WOULDN'T make me miserable in the summer.
Calling it a cotton petticoat might be a little disingenuous; the base of the garment/every part of it that touches my body is indeed cotton, but I DID use organza ruffles and soft tulle on the outside to give it shape. I decided to do this after looking at the way Sheglit does their petticoats, which is essentially a cotton skirt cover with ruffles, with an organza over layer to smooth things out.
I didn't take process pictures, because I'm horrible, but I wanted to write out what I did in case anyone else is in the market for making a cotton petticoat! I know I personally had a hard time finding info online.
The finished petticoat right after sewing/steaming
To make this, all you need to know how to do is sew a basic elastic-waist gathered skirt, gather ruffles, and do French seams.
After pre-washing and drying my fabric, I set out measuring the cotton skirt that would be the base for this petticoat. I determined I wanted a length of about 15 inches, and then calculated my hem circumference by doubling my largest measurement (my hips). If you're built a little straighter/narrower through the hip area, you can double your waist measurement, but if you have a butt you typically want to do double your hip measurement for the hem and use your hip as your "waist" to avoid the petticoat clinging. This left me with a hem circumference of 84 inches, and a waist circumference of 42 inches. I divided this again into two panels with a hem measuring 42 inches flat, and a waist measuring 21 inches flat. Connecting those two points with a slightly diagonal 17-inch line (2 inches added for waist and hem allowance) gave me my pattern pieces.
After cutting these pieces out I French seamed them together, folded and ironed the hem, folded and ironed the waistband, and went back to my machine to sew the hem and waist channels. Then it was time for the fun part (in actuality, the worst part): the ruffles.
I typically wear Gothic, so I didn't want a cupcake-y petticoat. Knowing this, I started my ruffles just shy of halfway down the skirt to create an A-line adjacent shape. There's one small ruffle measuring about 3 inches wide, and then a large one measuring around 6 inches wide. I French seamed lengths of organza together to make the ruffles, hemmed them with a zigzag stitch and a rolled hem, and then finished the raw top edge with an overlock before gathering and straight stitching them to the outside of the cotton skirt.
After adding the ruffles, I needed to smooth the shape out so that it doesn't show up as lumps under my dresses. For this, I doubled over about two yards of soft tulle net, gathered it down, and stitched it over top of the ruffles.
After this step, all that's left it to add your elastic and sew the channels closed! I did three small elastic channels as opposed to one large one, because I personally find that it's more comfortable and distributes the weight better.
This is what the inside looks like (post-wash, ignore the white fluff from the dryer). All French seamed, and only the cotton touches your body! Even with a synthetic layer on the outside, it is significantly cooler and comfier than synthetic petticoats I've worn.
And here is what it looks like worn under a dress. It might not be poofy enough for some people's tastes, but it's perfect for what I like!
I didn't want to write about it until I wore it for a bit, and my New York trip to see/meet Kamijo was a perfect pressure test. Happy to report after being shoved in a suitcase, crammed into a concert and the subway, and thrown directly into the washer/dryer, it's held up beautifully! I think the dryer actually made it even springier and fluffier haha. As a bonus, here is the photo op I got with Kamijo, featuring the cute Castlevania edit my best friend Megan did for me. The lighting in our venue was AWFUL, she made it so much cuter!
I was basically a deer in headlights, totally starstruck
I really can't believe I met him after like 12+ years of fandom, it's surreal. He was amazing live! Sorry to jumpscare you all by putting this at the end haha, but I will say a cotton petticoat is basically ideal for concerts! Combined with cotton bloomers you can basically avoid butt sweat almost entirely.
No comments:
Post a Comment